Sunday, October 25, 2015

Hokkaido Food Guide: Kani Honke's (かに本家) superb snow, hairy and king-crab cuisine in Sapporo!

This is one post of a multi-part series covering our Two weeks Tokyo & Hokkaido Travel Guide:
    ▫ Singapore Airlines Suites Class from Singapore to Tokyo
    ▫ Three Days in Tokyo: Off the Beaten Path
    ▫ Sapporo, Otaru and Cape Kamui: Scenic Self-Drive Guide
    ▫ Furano, Biei, Sounkyou and Asahikawa: Amazing Autumn Colours
    ▫ Jozankei, Noboribetsu and Hakodate: Unparalleled Beauty
    ▫ Scoot's ScootBiz Class from Tokyo to Singapore



Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine
"I, Mr Hairy Crab, do not approve of this blog post."

When you think about Hokkaido gourmet, a couple of things immediately spring to mind: Dairy (cheese, milk and its' products) and Seafood (uni, ikura, and crab). So of course no trip to this island would be complete without a meal at a crab specialty restaurant - we chose Kani Honke (かに本家) because:

1. It has good reviews among gaijins on the web;
2. It was near our hotel in Susukino, Sapporo; and
3. '本家' which literally means 'original/head family,' sounds really gangsta'.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

OK, we were a little joking on that third reason. Anyways, depending on where you are in Sapporo, the restaurant is within easy walking distance from either the Susukino or Odori subway stations. If you're walking from Odori and the weather's not cooperating do remember that the Pole Town shopping alley runs the entire underground stretch to Susukino.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

During our dinner visit in early October we didn't have to make reservations (but there's no harm getting your hotel concierge to phone in a booking to be safe). The restaurant doesn't have a large, open dining area; instead, there are multiple small mini-rooms separated by sliding shōji doors so you're guaranteed a pretty private dining experience.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

As you'd expect, Kani Honke basically serves nothing else but varying types (and quality) of crab and crab-based dishes. We found that navigating the photo-heavy menu was easy enough, and that randomly choosing a set menu based on your budget works wonders.

We went with the Hokkaido Hairy Crab Set Menu for two (¥13,200 or s$151.93) off their seasonal Autumn menu, which starts off with 前菜 ('zensai' i.e. appetizer of the day). All three items - some sort of fish fillet with lotus root, a mini bowl of seasoned raw squid, and fish cake - are cold, with very delicate, refreshing flavours.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

The next dish, also cold: Japanese silky tofu with bits タラバ ('Taraba' i.e. King Crab). The other two types of crab mainly eaten in Hokkaido are ズワイガニ ('Zuwaigani' i.e. Snow Crab), and 毛がに ('Kegani' i.e. Hairy Crab).

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

Snow Crab takes center stage in the next course (also cold, obviously) of Seasonal Assorted Sashimi, with slices of raw salmon and squid accompanying the raw snow crab leg. It's the first time we're trying raw crab, and neither of us liked it at all. The taste (sweet, juicy) wasn't too bad but the slimy, jelly-like texture was really off-putting.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

To round off the trinity: a whole Hairy Crab just for the two of us! Two dipping sauces are provided: clear white vinegar, and a milky, vinegary, yoghurt-like sauce, both of which are light-tasting and complement rather than override the natural sweetness and flavour of the crab. Absolutely delicious.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

We also ala-carte'd a separate order of Grilled King Crab Leg (can't remember exact price, should be ¥2,000-ish), to be eaten plain with just a hint of lemon and salt. I think grilling is the way to go when eating King Crab; there's a delightful char and aroma that comes from the shell & the meat that you don't get with other cooking methods.

One criticism: the thicker/fatter parts of the leg seemed a little undercooked, perhaps, since the center of the meat was a little raw. Not sure if this was intentional.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

Back to the set meal: more Taraba bits, served in a マリモ (stuffed glutinous rice ball), lathered with a hot, thick, savoury gravy of some sort. Also delicious.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

To finish off, we're served some Crab Sushi rolls and a bowl each of Crab Miso Soup. The sushi rice in the rolls were vinegared nicely, and pressed much more compact than with normal nigiri sushi. Decently generous portions of egg and crab mayo inside, too.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

Finally, for dessert, we're served some homemade yoghurt with assorted fruits: A sweet, sweet end to a pretty awesome meal.

Kani Honke Sapporo Snow Hairy and King Crab Cuisine

For a final bill coming to just under ¥16,000, we thought Kani Honke's set meals were pretty good value for money. The highlight of the meal was, of course, the Hokkaido Hairy Crab (which, being a lot larger and meatier, are not the same species as China/Shanghai Hairy Crabs). Service is provided by cheerful, kimono-clad waitresses who are just fluent enough in English to briefly describe the dishes as they're being served.

Kani Honke has one other location in Sapporo, next to the Sapporo train station, and twelve other locations nation-wide. Open for lunch & dinner all year long except for New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.

Saturday, October 24, 2015

Four delicious restaurants to try in Tokyo: Ginza, Tsukiji, Odaiba and Shinjuku.

This is one post of a multi-part series covering our Two weeks Tokyo & Hokkaido Travel Guide:
    ▫ Singapore Airlines Suites Class from Singapore to Tokyo
    ▫ Three Days in Tokyo: Off the Beaten Path
    ▫ Sapporo, Otaru and Cape Kamui: Scenic Self-Drive Guide
    ▫ Furano, Biei, Sounkyou and Asahikawa: Amazing Autumn Colours
    ▫ Jozankei, Noboribetsu and Hakodate: Unparalleled Beauty
    ▫ Scoot's ScootBiz Class from Tokyo to Singapore



Tokyo is an absolute gourmet paradise. For the last 5 years it's held the title of the City with the most Michelin-star rated restaurants in the World - surpassing even Paris where the Michelin guide was born. Fine dining is (typically) expensive, though, but us less well-heeled plebs can take solace in the fact that this gastronomical excellence trickles down to some very reasonably priced restaurants.

So without further ado, in today's blogpost we're recommending four restaurants, in four different corners of the city, serving up four distinct types of Japanese cuisine. Happy eating!



Hitsumabushi Bincho (ひつまぶしびんちょ)
What: Nagoya-style Charcoal-grilled Eel on hot steamed rice
Where: Ginza. 12th floor of the Marrionnier Gate mall (next to Printemps)
Price: ¥3,150 and up
English?: Yes
Yum Factor: 👍 👍 👍 👍

Best Tokyo Restaurants Hitsumabushi Unagi Bincho Ginza

In Japan there are two main styles of grilling Unagi (freshwater eel). In the Kanto-style (the more Eastern parts of Japan, including Tokyo/Edo), the eel is broiled and steamed before being charcoal-grilled, which results in a moister, softer eel. Here at Hitsumabushi Bincho we try the Kansai/Nagoya-style, which is charcoal-grilled from start to finish, resulting in eel fillets that are dryer but have a more pronounced crispy / charred flavour.

Each order of eel rice comes with Kimosui: a very clear, very mildly-flavoured soup (¥100 additional if you want some eel guts).

Best Tokyo Restaurants Hitsumabushi Unagi Bincho Ginza

The base Hitsumabushi costs ¥3,150, with each subsequent menu item increasing both in price and quantity of eel served (you can go all the way up to a double portion of eel). For about an extra ¥1,000 or so you can convert the bowl into a 'set meal' which comes with some varying side dishes - examples being salad, cold tofu, chilled unagi and tamagoyaki.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Hitsumabushi Unagi Bincho Ginza

We're not exactly sure what the grammatical meaning of Hitsumabushi is, but in the food world it seems to refer to a "three-ways-style" of eating a particular dish. So for this bowl of eel on rice you're supposed to:

1st style: Eat plain grilled eel with rice.
2nd style: Add toppings such as chopped spring onion and wasabi.
3rd style: Pour a generous amount of clear dashi-stock-based broth, and enjoy unagi "soupy rice."

Our favorite was the 1st style: Pure, unadulterated freshwater eel goodness.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Hitsumabushi Unagi Bincho Ginza



Yotekkoya Ramen (よってこや ラーメン)
What: Kyoto-style Tonkotsu Ramen
Where: Odaiba, Ground floor of the Decks Mall (facing the street)
Price: ¥1,000 and up
English?: Yes
Yum Factor: 👍 👍 👍

Best Tokyo Restaurants Yottekoya Odaiba

You can't miss the entrance of this Ramen restaurant in Odaiba - It's got a huge, 6 foot tall 'よ' facing the street. Yotteko-ya serves up Kyoto-style ramen in a (relatively for Japan standards) large restaurant which unapologetically smells like tonkotsu (pork bone) broth.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Yottekoya Odaiba

There are a few different broth types on offer, all variations of the pork bone-based paitang (白湯, literally 'white soup') - choose to add some spice, miso, or little bits of chicken fat. Lunch sets are around the ¥1,000 range, with your choice of rice, mini rice with chashu, gyoza or fried chicken.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Yottekoya Odaiba

Noodle portions are on the large side: enough for all but the largest of appetites, and the taste is pretty good. Not good enough to unseat the more famous chains like ichiran or ippudo, perhaps, but if you're in the area anyway you won't be disappointed.



Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo (築地虎杖 魚河岸千両)
What: Sushi and Hitsumabushi Kaisen Don (Seafood bowl)
Where: Tsukiji's Outer Fish Market area
Price: ¥2,000 and up
English?: Yes
Yum Factor: 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍

Best Tokyo Restaurants Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo

Most first-timers to Tsukiji Market will try to pay a visit to one of the "big two" sushi restaurants: Sushi Dai or Daiwa Sushi. A meal at either these restaurants typically involves setting a 5:30am alarm clock and a 2-4 hour queue, though, so if you're not really up to doing either of those things, there are a myriad of other sushi restaurants serving up food that's almost just as good.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo

We're big fans of Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo at the outer market area (introduced to us by RegentCid, lowyat.net's resident Japan guru). Although they also serve up sushi and seafood rice bowls, their specialty is the Hitsumabushi Kaisen Don: A bowl of ikura and cubes of assorted raw fish, topped off with a hunking heap of sweet uni. As with the Unagi meal we described earlier in the article, this bowl is also meant to be eaten "three ways":

1st style: Fish with rice, like normal kaisen don.
2nd style: Mix thoroughly until the uni coats every grain of rice and cube of fish.
3rd style: Like 2nd style, only with hot dashi stock. Hot, soupy, perfect for colder weather.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo

If that's not quite your cup of tea, more 'traditional' kaisen dons are also available ...

Best Tokyo Restaurants Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo

... as are ala-carte orders of sushi. Pictured here: the Hon Maguro (bluefin tuna) selection - 4x akami (lean tuna), 2x chuu-toro and 2x oh-toro (medium-fatty and fatty tuna respectively).

Best Tokyo Restaurants Tsukiji Itadori Uogashisenryo

There's no doubt that if you're willing to give up the time and effort to queue for the "big two" shops then you should do so; but otherwise Itadori Uogashisenryo's offerings are very very good!



Torikizoku Yakitori (焼き鳥 鳥貴族)
What: Yakitori (charcoal-grilled chicken skewers)
Where: Shinjuku, a few blocks away from Golden Gai
Price: ¥1,500 and up
English?: Yes
Yum Factor: 👍 👍 👍 👍

Best Tokyo Restaurants Torikizoku Shinjuku

The outlet of Torikizoku we visited in Shinjuku was at the basement of some building sort of in-between the station and Golden Gai. Although it specializes in Yakitori (¥280 for each order of typically two skewers), there's other izakaya staples on the menu as well such as fried chicken bites, etc. And a lot of different beer too, of course.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Torikizoku Shinjuku

When the Japanese eat yakitori it's normally a chicken degustation of sorts; i.e. they'll order some skewers of chicken and leek, then maybe some hearts, some skin, and then top it off with a gizzard skewer.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Torikizoku Shinjuku

Our group, collectively, isn't as adventurous though so we stick to safe skewers - meatballs with cheese, chicken tails, wings, and wishbones.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Torikizoku Shinjuku

Strangely, when ordering we're not asked whether we want たれ ('tare', sauce) or 塩 ('shio', salt). I guess each different skewer has its own 'default' whether to come sauced or salted? Anyways the meats were generally very nice, with a terrific char and aroma that can only come from direct-flame grilling.

Best Tokyo Restaurants Torikizoku Shinjuku

One slight criticism: There are no non-smoking seats, so there definitely can be a faint (or strong) smell of cigarette smoke depending if the tables beside you are puffing away (or not).



If you're in any of the areas, do pay these restaurants a visit! Feel free to leave any questions or concerns in the comments. いただきます!!!

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Tokyo's Best Attraction: Robot Restaurant Shinjuku (ロボットレストラン). Die die must go!

This is one post of a multi-part series covering our Two weeks Tokyo & Hokkaido Travel Guide:
    ▫ Singapore Airlines Suites Class from Singapore to Tokyo
    ▫ Three Days in Tokyo: Off the Beaten Path
    ▫ Sapporo, Otaru and Cape Kamui: Scenic Self-Drive Guide
    ▫ Furano, Biei, Sounkyou and Asahikawa: Amazing Autumn Colours
    ▫ Jozankei, Noboribetsu and Hakodate: Unparalleled Beauty
    ▫ Scoot's ScootBiz Class from Tokyo to Singapore



The main reason I like Tokyo so much is that the city is a million different things to a million different people. No matter what facet of Japanese life and culture you're looking for, whether the bizarre or the traditional, the modern or the old, it's almost certain you'll find it - and more - in the metropolis.

And if it so happens that you're interested in sampling Japan's popular culture: anime, dancing, robots, neon lights and music, then nothing - and I mean absolutely nothing - in the entire city is better than Shinjuku's Robot Restaurant.

Located smack in the middle of the nightlife, entertainment (and red light) district of Shinjuku, within short walking range of the train station, the Robot Restaurant isn't so much a restaurant as it is a modern cabaret show, created specifically to meet every single stereotype that gaijins (foreigners) have of modern Japan.

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Map and Street View photos courtesy of Google

There are four shows a day (about 1-and-a-half hours long), and ticket prices range from ¥5,950-¥7,000/pax depending on which website you buy from. Ticket in hand, head around the corner to the entrance, take a lift up a few floors, and marvel at the amount of bling, shine, lights and music. There's no rhyme or reason here; the designers made it so unbelievably gaudy because they could.

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

Once the show's about to start, head down the stairs to the stage (or perhaps 'arena' would be a more accurate word): a strip of floor flanked on both sides by seating, tables, and floor-to-ceiling LCD TV panels. The tables are, of course, for food & drinks - ¥500 buys you a beer and ¥1,000 one of a few choices of bento boxes of the night.

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

We've put together a short, 2-minute teaser video of what the experience looks and feels like. And yes, the thumbnail on the video is totally a costumed woman riding a dinosaur.


The awesomeness begins. The first mini-act opens up with a bit of tradition: A dozen or more performers in a combined drum-and-dance routine, accompanied by (naturally) lights, animated images on the LCD panels and a J-Pop soundtrack. It's loud, it's catchy, it's energetic, and fun as hell to watch. What we loved most was the sheer energy, smiles and joy coming from the performers, despite our show being the 4th one of the evening.

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

A short intermission (and opportunity to restock on beer) is followed by a hilarious story of good and evil: A village of forest dwellers where humans live in harmony with nature is invaded by evil, robot-wielding monster things. And so the forest fights back ...

... with what can only be described as kung fu panda riding a huge cow. So awesome!

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

Po gets his ass kicked, though, so we move on to a back-and-forth duel that mimics (or makes fun of) every single shounen manga ('young boys manga') in existence. i.e., Team A wins a fight. Team B powers up and wins. Team A powers up again and wins. Team B powers up yet again, repeat til infinity.

Revealing every single character would spoil the fun, but there are spiders, and gorillas. And dinosaurs. And miniguns and robots with lasers. There's absolutely no logic here but I absolutely love it!

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

Yet another intermission (and opportunity to visit the washroom to get rid of all that beer), with a natural progression to ... a musical marching band performance ...

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

... followed by a short led-and-lasers dance performance while staff hand out blinking wands to the crowd ...

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

... before the grand finale where some girls with the Superman logo on their chests, together with some others in robot costumes, wave, dance, and jump around in a performance so unlike anything I've ever seen before that I don't even know how to describe it in words.

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku
Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

Did I also mention some of them sit on female-shaped robots and drive around the arena?

Robot Restaurant Shinjuku

If there ever was a real life situation to use the "what is this I don't even" meme, this would be it. There's no logic to any of the acts, the backstories are the cheesiest in the history of live shows, and there's no continuity in between. None of this is authentic Japan: It's as if the designers took a list of 'top foreigners stereotypes of what they think Japan is,' and just shoehorned everything to fit. But I don't care, and I totally love it. It makes no sense and yet it's the most awesome thing I've ever seen in my three visits to the city.

If you had only one night in Tokyo, and you could only see do one thing, you must visit the Robot Restaurant. It's THAT good.

Monday, October 19, 2015

How we flew Singapore Airline's (SIA) Suites Class for s$200! (SQ 12, SIN-NRT)

This is one post of a multi-part series covering our Two weeks Tokyo & Hokkaido Travel Guide:
    ▫ Singapore Airlines Suites Class from Singapore to Tokyo
    ▫ Three Days in Tokyo: Off the Beaten Path
    ▫ Sapporo, Otaru and Cape Kamui: Scenic Self-Drive Guide
    ▫ Furano, Biei, Sounkyou and Asahikawa: Amazing Autumn Colours
    ▫ Jozankei, Noboribetsu and Hakodate: Unparalleled Beauty
    ▫ Scoot's ScootBiz Class from Tokyo to Singapore



"I don't always fly, but when I do I fly First class" ... is probably what many of us wish we could say. In the case of Singapore Airlines / SIA's A380s, First class is Suites Class - an almost fully enclosed private mini cabin of your own, with unparalleled comfort and service in the sky (but you knew that already, of course). Naturally the darling and I have wanted to sample this luxury for many years now.

Well, one thing led to another, and in mid-March this year we confirmed a Suites Class booking from Singapore to Narita (Tokyo)!

* insert girly squeal of disbelief and joy here *

As you can imagine, our anticipation has been building up gradually for months as the flight date grew closer and closer, until the day we finally got to pack our bags and book a taxi!



On The Ground

The awesomeness begins at the airport, as we pull up to Changi Terminal 3's dedicated First Class Check In concourse, with bellhops on standby to take our luggage from our taxi. A receptionist greets us at the door to escort us inside ...

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT First Class Check In

... to the huge reception / check-in lounge area! We're not quite sure why this room needs to be so large - It certainly gives a great first impression of grandeur, but since each passenger only spends a couple of minutes checking-in, it's also feels pretty deserted and underutilized.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT First Class Check In

Anyways, the segregation from the hoi polloi continues after check-in, with our own dedicated First Class immigration clearance lane (no photos allowed, unfortunately). The immigration tunnel exits into the Terminal 3 transit mall, one floor below the lounges. Singapore Airlines' First Class passengers get access to the best airport lounge in the region - The Private Room - which we wrote about in a previous post.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT The Private Room

An hour before the 9.25am departure time, we leave the comfort of The Private Room and head to our gate for the security check. Seeing the Airbus A380 in the flesh really brings our anticipation to a peak; It's an amazing testament to human ingenuity that a beast this big and huge can fly safely and comfortably for hours on end.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Airbus A380
We actually snapped this photo only upon arrival in Tokyo ... oops :P

Once boarding is called, naturally we're first in line to board the aircraft. We're giddy with excitement but put on our strongest nonchalant, "oh we've done this a million times before" faces as force ourselves to slowly walk down the Suites-dedicated aerobridge.

As we approach the aircraft door, three flight attendants come out to greet us with a "Welcome back, Mr Timing" and lead us to our seats (they don't even ask to see our boarding passes). The moment we're seated we're handed a luxurious leather binder with the menu for the day plus our choice of pre-departure beverage ("Oh, apple juice will do for now, thanks."), and left alone for a couple of minutes.



The Airbus A380 Suite

Words cannot describe how unbelievably amazing this cabin is. In the months since making the flight booking we've browsed countless photos but that hasn't diminished the sensation of how luxurious this cabin feels in person one bit. It's spacious, it's private (you can close the doors and draw the blinds), it's aesthetically amazing.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Cabin
That's an 'oh em gee I can't believe I'm really sitting here' smile.

The seat itself is immensely comfortable, and decked out in leather hand-stitched by 'master craftsmen Poltrona Frau.' It's good good support for the thighs, and armrests spaced out just far enough and exactly at the right height.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Seat
To be honest, we didn't know who on earth Poltrona Frau is, either.

Up front there's an ottoman for resting of feet (which also doubles up as the storage area for your carry-on luggage), a blanket and two nicely sized pillows for comfort. One minor niggle: In this 'seat mode' the 23-inch wide LCD screen is offset slightly to the left (or to the right, depending on which side of the cabin you're on).

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Ottoman and Television
Watching an episode of Just for Laughs while wearing SQ-provided socks & slippers.

If you're not quite tall enough to reach the ottoman with your feet fret not; you can recline your seat and raise the foot rest. Electrically powered, of course. Some other bloggers have complained that the seat recline is limited but we felt that the angle was more than adequate to achieve a comfortable lounging position.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Cabin Reclined

On the 'inner' side of your cabin you'll find a 110v power socket, video-in jack, USB ports and the headphone plugs. Singapore Airlines, like practically every airline nowadays, uses Bose noise-cancelling headphones, which are remarkably comfortable and do a stellar job in eliminating ambient noise.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Bose headphones and Power Outlet

The handset for controlling the excellent KrisWorld entertainment system is on the 'outer' side (i.e. facing the aisle) of the cabin, just below the controls for lights (on/off and intensity), attendant call and do not disturb buttons.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Lights and A/V Controls

On longer flights (7 hours or more) you also get a set of Singapore Airlines-branded pajamas (SQ calls it a 'sleeping suit'), eye-shades and a Salvatore Ferragamo amenity kit - with mini-sized bottles of cologne/perfume, lip balm, towelettes and moisturizing cream.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Pajamas and Amenity Kits
'His' on the right, 'Hers' on the left. Doesn't the 'Hers' kit look way nicer?

On pretense of visiting the lavatory, I change into my pajamas / sleeping suit as early into the flight as possible. It turned out to be a decision I would regret slightly later: the darling and I had intended to take a tour of the rest of the A380, but we decided it would be way too hao lian (show off) to do so while wearing Suites/First class pajamas.

Anyways the lavatory, while being ever so slightly blinged out, is just as small and tiny as those in economy or business class. No showers here (unlike Qatar and Emirates on their A380s). On the plus side I got to experience a little bit of what makes SQ service so legendary: I had scarcely gotten out of my seat when a steward held open the lavatory door for me, handed me a hanger (to hang my Suit and Business attire T-shirt and jeans), and waited outside for me to finish changing up so he could help me hang my clothes in the wardrobe behind my suite. Two thumbs up!

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Bathroom

Shortly after I return to my seat the A380 pushes back and taxis to the runway for the beginning of our 6-and-a-bit hour flight. This Airbus is my favorite aircraft: thanks to its size it's one of the more stable aircraft in flight, but most importantly it's one of the quietest in the cabin (probably the quietest). I've been on some B772/B773's that were so loud I could barely hear myself think; no such problems here as I'm able to comfortably have a normal-volume conversation with the darling.



Fine Dining at 40,000 feet

Serving good food in an aircraft is probably more challenging than most of us appreciate. Flight attendants aren't chefs, and an airplane galley isn't a kitchen (you can't exactly install a charcoal grill behind the lavatories), so all the food is prepped, cooked, and then chilled or frozen on the ground, many many hours before it's served in-flight. If you think about it you're basically eating frozen dinners!

The airline tries its' best within the constraints it has, though, and in the case of Singapore Airlines, this means hiring eight celebrity chefs to imagine and cook up their Suites / First class chow. As this is a flight to Japan, Chef Yoshihiro Murata's Kyo-Kaiseki is given menu front-page honours, but if you feel like something less Japanese-ey there's an alternate six-course menu available, too.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Lunch Menu

Before we take a closer look at the food, allow us a little digression to our second favorite thing about SQ's suite. Remember that ottoman in an earlier picture where we rested our feet on? During meal times you can use it as a companion seat, so you can totally invite your partner over to your own suite for lunch or dinner! The seat even has its' own seat belt so you can remain safely strapped in during turbulence.

It's exactly like booking your own private table in a nice restaurant, except that you're infinitely more comfortable here thanks to the soft, fluffy, stretchy pajamas / sleeping suit. Amazing.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Eat Together

Oh, and of course no meal is complete without a proper drink. Our alcohol tolerance is effectively zero, but such a small detail isn't going to stop us from trying at least a quarter glass of 2004 Dom Pérignon and Krug Grand Cuvée champagnes.

(Yes ... even our cheerful flight attendant was disappointed that we only wanted so little bubbly. "Such a special occasion you're only drinking so little champagne? No fun lah, like that.")

If champagne isn't your thing, there's also an extensive range of red and white wines, aperitifs, cocktails, spirits, beer and liqueurs. Oh, and sodas and fruit juices. And a dozen different coffees from Illy, and teas from TWG. Chances are whatever you want is on the menu. If you're interested, we've listed the full range of what's available at the end of this post.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Champagne

In the interest of greater variety, the darling decides to go with the regular menu, and I try the Kyo-Kaiseki. Both options start off with the same pre-meal canape: Singapore Chicken and Beef Satay (you get caviar with dinner services). It's pretty similar to the ones we tried at The Private Room - probably catered by the same kitchen after all.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Satay

The regular menu then moves on to as much bread as you want from this bread basket. The garlic bread comes in particularly high regard; we perhaps made the mistake of keeping it aside until the soup course, which meant it was a little cold and soggy by the time we partook.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Bread Basket

Parma Ham and Perigourdine Truffle with rock melon and honeydew was our choice of appetizer. We're big fans of this Italian dish; we love how the salt, fat and flavours of the ham are accentuated by the sweet, juicy melon.

(Alternate choice: Oriental Antipasto with poached king prawn, smoked balik salmon and marinated octopus)

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Parma Ham

For the soup course we tried the Cream of Asparagus with shiitake mushroom and scallop chawanmushi. Nice, hearty soup, given a touch of texture and complexity from the egg custard. Shame that the garlic bread from the basket was no longer crispy by this point.

(Alternate choice: Cantonese Watercress Soup with Pork and Red Dates)

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Soup

By far the worst course of the afternoon was the Salad. The french dressing seemed to be pure vinegar, and ladled on so generously as to render the salad unpalatably sour. In hindsight we should have requested the dressing on the side.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Salad

For our main course, we had earlier pre-ordered a Lobster Thermidor via Singapore Airlines' Book the Cook service. I mean, how could we have possibly resisted such a tempting description?

"Lobster Thermidor
Whole lobster sautéed in butter, flambéed in brandy, sprinkled with cheese, and served with creamy mushroom sauce, garlic and spicy mustard, and buttered asparagus."


Total yums. Also, having lobster on a plane just seems more awesome than anything else.

(Alternate choices: Pan Fried Black Cod Fillet, Singapore Style Herbal Chicken and Miso-Marinated Wagyu Beef Fillet)

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Lobster Thermidor

We're told that Book the Cook dishes are catered on top of the standard menu offerings for the day, so if you're a big eater you should be able to request an additional main course off the menu.

Dessert-wise, the Warm Lemon Tart with mango ice cream and citrus salad is heavenly to me (I really dig sour, citrus-ey flavours).

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Citrus Tart

Moving on to my choice of Kyo-Kaiseki: The Sakizuke (先附, 'appetizer course') and Mukozuke (向付, 'sashimi course') are served together:

Sakizuke (upper, from L-R): Grilled Matsutake Mushroom with Yuzu, Marinated Mackerel with Persimmon salad, and Squid and Red Capsicum Salad with Caviar.
Mukozuke (lower): Seared Yellow Tail Tuna with Mixed Salad and Mustard Yuzu dressing.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Kyo-Kaiseki

These dishes set out the Chef's tone for the Kaiseki: Clean, simple cooking with focus on the taste and choice of ingredients rather than on heavy seasoning or flavours.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Kyo-Kaiseki

Next up: Oshinogi (御凌ぎ, 'palette cleanser course') of Pacific Saury-Saffron Sushi, Chicken Liver Terrine and Fish Cake (in the foreground), and Chilled Buckwheat Noodle, Spring Onion, Wasabi and Seaweed (background):

Some interesting, unique flavours here: The Sushi being flavored and coloured with saffron. Soba was pretty par for the course.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Kyo-Kaiseki

The cold dishes done with, we move on to the hot dishes, starting with the Futamono (蓋物, 'lidded dish'): Lily Bud Dumpling with Foie Gras and Quail meat.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Kyo-Kaiseki

Yakimono (焼物, 'flame grilled items'): Beef Fillet Teriyaki with Carrot, Sweet Potato and Turnip Flower (L); Grilled Barracuda, Shiitake and Sudachi Lime (R).

Gohan (御飯, 'rice dish'): Steamed rice with Chestnut, Saikyo Miso Soup with Awafu Tofu, Mustard and Assorted Pickles.

We very much liked the sweetness in the carrot and sweet potato, but didn't like the beef (it was cooked well done and hence really dry). Rice was fluffy, steamy perfection.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Kyo-Kaiseki

Mizugashi (水菓子, 'fruits/dessert'): Fig Jelly with Azuki Ice Cream: A nice, sweet, fruity ending to an ... interesting meal.

We thought the Kyo-Kaiseki was pretty decent overall. We felt that there are simply too many mini individual items for SQ's catering chain to get totally right (sixteen in total, if you haven't been keeping count), but that in the grand scheme of things it's a great accomplishment.

Just a side note, though: This Kyo-Kaiseki probably won't be to everyone's liking: If you like your food bold and bursting with flavour you might be a bit disappointed.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Kyo-Kaiseki

The Kaiseki and non-Kaiseki menus converge here to the Cheese course (which we declined due to non-availability of stomach space, much to the disappointment of our waitress attendant).

We did, however, find some space for fresh fruits - sweet strawberries and some rock melon ...

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Fresh Fruit

... and some chocolate petit fours. There's always room for chocolate!

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Petit Fours

With all the many courses finally devoured, we top off our stomachs with some coffee and tea (check out the end of the post for a listing of what's available). Forgot to take photos, unfortunately :)



The pièce de résistance

It is said that sleeping immediately after eating is A Bad Idea. But our tummies are so overloaded from three huge meals in the previous 18 hours that we're in total food coma zombie mode. So we ask the attendants for some help with our beds and go for a short walk and lavatory break ...

... and come back to our suites to find this ... magnificence.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Double Bed

Nothing prepares you for just how awesome this looks and feels like in person. A double bed? In an airplane? With your own (almost) fully-enclosed private cabin? Ohmigawd yes please!

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Double Bed
That uncontrollable grin when a double bed at 40,000 feet becomes reality.

Now, if you're thinking that this looks like the perfect opportunity to get some mile high club action going on, well, you can probably see from the photos that the suite isn't fully enclosed. There are little windows where attendants can walk past, peek in, and see what you're doing. So if you're going to try, well ... be discrete about it. We decided not to risk the embarrassment of potentially getting caught :)

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Double Bed

The attendants will gladly make a double bed for you if you're flying alone (and the cabin is empty enough), but do note that it isn't really a double bed. It's two single beds with a divider running down the middle, so you'd end up lounging / sleeping on either one of the two sides.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Double Bed

We both finish watching Inside Out (a superb animated film, great for adults) and settle down for slightly over an hour of shut-eye.

You can probably imagine how the anti-climatic the rest of the flight is: The captain comes on the PA to announce starting the descent. We begrudgingly change out of our pajamas while the attendants convert the suite back to seat mode. Plane lands and we drag ourselves to the airport to a chorus of "Thank you very much and see you again Mr timing!"

Although it doesn't really feel that bad, because we have two whole weeks of holidays ahead of us in Tokyo and Hokkaido!



That's great and all, but about that s$200 you mentioned ...

3rd March 2017 Update: Singapore Airlines has unfortunately carried out a devaluation exercise: mileage requirements for redemptions have increased, and the 15% discount for online bookings has been removed. So while previously a first class one-way redemption to Tokyo was 51,000 miles, it's now gone up to 65,000 miles: A hefty 27.5% increase. The new rates take effect on the 23rd of March, though, so if you've got some miles stashed away, you've still got around three weeks to book at the old rates!

Don't worry, we haven't forgotten! A one-way trip in Suites class from Singapore to Tokyo normally costs s$4,950.90. Naturally we didn't pay anywhere near that. If you've heard of the phrase "frequent flier miles" then you already knew up front how we financed this flight: Frequent Flier Miles!

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Full Fare

To be exact, we spent 51,000 KrisFlyer miles and s$201.70 for each ticket.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Miles Redemption Amount

But 51,000 miles seems like a huge number!

Actually, not really. If you're blessed enough to have your company fly you around for work on Singapore Airlines (even in economy class), the miles can rack up mighty quickly. For example, a single return trip to Johannesburg and back nets you 13,448 miles (with 25% bonus from KrisFlyer Silver/Gold).

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT SIN JNB mileage accrual

In addition to flying (or if you don't fly many long hauls), supplement your earning rate with an air miles credit card. Holding both the Citi PremierMiles Visa and Amex * cards net you 25,000 miles a year, in addition to up to 10 additional miles for each dollar spent (for seasonal hotel booking or other promotions).

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT SIN JNB mileage accrual

So let's put together a quick, simple scenario:

Jan-Feb 2016: Fly a single Economy class long-haul Singapore Airlines flight: 14,000 miles.
Mar 2016: Annual renewal for Citi PremierMiles Visa and Amex: 25,000 miles.
Jan-Oct 2016: Charge monthly expenditure of s$1,000, @ 1.3 miles per dollar: 13,000 miles.

Total accrued in less than a year: 52,000 miles, enough to take the exact same journey that we did!

Yes, it really is that straightforward. Obviously you'll need to set your own target according to your own individual mileage earning rate and/or how many family members you have. For a quick and easy guide to how many miles you need for selected destinations, do check out our Ultimate Singapore Airlines KrisFlyer Miles Redemption Guide. Quick tip: 31,875 miles is enough to buy you a one way Suites class journey to Hong Kong.

* Disclaimer: There are dozens of Mileage cards in Singapore: Choose one that suits you best. We are only using Citi's cards in this blog post for illustration, and we do not gain anything if you decide to apply. Having said that, Citi does have a 'friend referral' facility, so if you found this post useful and would like to throw us a bone do get in touch :)



Final thoughts and et cetera

If you weren't aware of Mileage redemptions up til now, we sincerely hope that this post has inspired you to follow in our footsteps, and start building up your own little nest egg of KrisFlyer miles to fly in supreme comfort to wherever your next upcoming destination is. If you're interested and would like to know a little bit more detail, don't hesitate to contact us via email (or via the comments section below); we're definitely eager to share.

Singapore Airlines Suites SQ12 SIN-NRT Suite

Despite being almost a decade old, Singapore Airlines Suites is definitely still one of, if not the best overall experiences you can get in the air. Yes, their ground services have fallen a little behind the curve, and yes, Etihad's amazing new Apartments are bigger, more spacious, and probably a little more comfortable. But as a package deal SQ's Suites are still as competitive as they were the day they were introduced.





Beverage Options for this flight (as promised):

Champagnes: 2004 Dom Pérignon, Krug Grand Cuvée
White Wines: 2012 Marimar Estate La Masia Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay, 2008 Domaine William Fever Montmains Chablis Premier Cru, 2013 Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett
Red Wines: 2009 Louis Latour Chateau Corton-Grancey Grand Cru, 2007 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2013 Clonakilla O'Riada Shiraz
Port: Dow's 20 Year Old Port
Cocktails: Singapore Sling, Dry Martini
Aperitifs: Campari, Dry Vermouth
Spirits: Macallan 12-Year-Old Single Malt, Johnnie Walker Blue Lable, Jack Daniel's, Hennessy Cognac XO, Belvedere Vodka, Bacardi Superior Rum, Bombay Sapphire Gin, Sawaya Matsumoto Sake
Liqueurs: Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, Bailey's Irish Cream, Aragoshi Umeshu
Beers: Tiger, Budweiser, Asahi
Illy Coffees: Guatemala, Brazil, Ethiopia, Espresso, Jamaican Blue Mountain
TWG Teas: 1837 Black, Silver Moon, Rooibos, Royal Darjeeling, English Breakfast, Chamomile, Breakfast Earl Grey, Moroccan Mint
Other Teas: Jasmine, Oolong, Pu-Erh, Sencha Green, Indian Masala, Hojicha, Peppermint
And of Course: Still & Sparkling waters, fruit juices, sodas and ice milo